Build Process

Garage Continued

It’s only just dawned on me that I haven’t updated the blog with progress on the garage. So, a bit (lot) belatedly here it is…

The concrete slab was poured and levelled in no time at all. We put a few ducts in the slab to bring water, electric and internet up but most ended up being too far from the walls to be much use (no point in having the electric cable 200mm away from the wall). The only one that we’ll use is for bringing the internet cables up and the others will be blocked off. Electric and water will now just come in through the walls.

We have two wires for internet in the garage. One is to connect a PoE CCTV camera and the other is to get wifi in there. There is a signal from the house but it’s pretty weak.

garageslab - 1

Brickie surveying his handy-work

The structure is single-skin blockwork with a flat roof. I was originally going to make it well-insulated (slab/walls/roof) as I do quite like to tinker in the garage but I couldn’t justify the increase in cost and I could better spend the money in other areas at the moment. I may well insulate the roof area and walls at a later date but it’s not on my list of priorities any more.

The walls themselves went up really quickly and in just a couple of days you can see what a great space it will be. The garage is about 6.7m in each direction, so not small!


All in a day’s work



We went with a flat roof on the garage for a couple of reasons: we felt it was more in-keeping with the design of the house; and as the garage is quite close to the front boundary and footpath, we felt that having a flat roof would lessen the impact it would have on the road. We’re good like that 🙂  Anyway, Planning were happy with that so that’s what we’ve got!

The roof trusses specified by the architect were solid timber but these posed a few  issues. Namely that to get the span we would need quite large cross-section which in turn makes them incredibly heavy to lift – they’re also hard to come by. In addition, solid beams make it more difficult to pass services around the roof space. The obvious solution is to use the metal web joists that we have used successfully in the rest of the build.


Garage joists

Obviously a flat roof needs to drain, but how? A very good question!

To get the fall from front to back we nailed firrings – long lengths of timber that a gradually tapered. We went for a fall of  about 1:60, which is more than needed. Normally these would be fixed straight to the top of each joist but we wanted the fall front to back, not side to side so the firrings are perpendicular to the joists, not parallel with them. The roof was then covered with 2440x1220mm boards of 18mm thick OSB3.

My dad and I did this (the firrings and OSB) over 3 short days but it could easily be done in 1 if needed.

The next issue to overcome was what to waterproof the roof with. I didn’t want to use the same stuff that we put above the kitchen as it is just too messy. After looking at all the options I decided we were going to use a rubber membrane (EPDM). Some people love it, others hate it, but at the end of the day this was just going on a garage so if there was a problem with it then it’s not the end of the world.

Next question – who to fit it? I asked around and eventually got someone to quote for the work, which came in at £2100! He said it would only take a day so I looked up the cost of the materials – about £700. So £1400 labour for 1 day. I don’t pay anyone £1400 for a day’s work and decided I would do it myself. I mean, how hard can it be? As always, ‘not very’.

The single-piece rubber membrane was supplied with the adhesives and a few other bits and pieces. So armed with a few YouTube videos we set to work. Problem number 1 was how to get it on the roof as it was so heavy – about 120kg I would guess. A small hired lift got it up in no time, although it did cost nearly £100 for 10 minutes of use!

The process of glueing the rubber to the roof is very simple. We did end up with a few creases but partly this was due to the difficulty in trying to manouevre the rubber. In the end it’s pretty good (I’m happy with it) although if I did it again I would tackle the job slightly differently. However, we did save over £1000. Which is nice.


About to glue the rubber to the front upstand

The roof has now been in place for over a month and despite some incredibly heavy wind and rain there are no leaks, so I suppose that vindicates my decision to do it ourselves. This is despite the fact that we are yet to fit the copings that will give more edge protection – these will go on once the rendering is complete.

A door has also been fitted. This is quite a big deal as it means that lots of stuff we were keeping in the house can now be secured outside. The door itself is from Garador, part of the Hoermann company and is an insulated sectional door, electrically operated.


Garage door



Internal Doors

I recently finished a contract for a client and rather than jump straight into another I decided to take a month or so out to try and get the house ready for moving in – the timing couldn’t have been much better to be honest.

The ‘normal’ approach to fitting internal doors is to buy door linings, architraves, doors, hinges and handles get then get a joiner to fit them all. Given that we haven’t gone down this route, I suppose we must be ‘abnormal’. Hmmm…

What we have done is buy ‘door sets’. In essence this is a factory made bespoke door frame and door that is easily fitted by a DIY-er. I’ve said it before, but ‘how hard can it be?’. The answer turns out to be ‘not very’.

The doors were supplied by Deuren and are finished in a satin walnut veneer. The quality is superb but I actually find the construction and installation the fascinating part. This is much easier to show with the help of some photos.

The basic frame is custom-sized to each opening. In the photos below you can see the head-rail screwed into one of the verticals. The small strips are used to locate the flat architraves.



The flat architraves need to be cut to length and are located on the room side of the frame.


Flat architraves

With the frame screwed together and the flat architrave cut to length, the architrave is fixed onto the frame and glued into place.


Flat architraves clamped after glueing


One side done

With the architraves fitted to the frame, the next step is to fit the frame into the opening. The flat architraves are positioned in the room into which the door opens, so the picture below shows the frame looking into the room.

An unusual set of clamps were supplied with the doors and help to position and adjust the frame. They’re very simple but incredibly effective!


Frame held securely 


Fitment clamps

Now the frame is secure the door can be hung. This is a pretty trivial task made even easier by the use of a pair of wind-bags to help raise and locate the hinges into the frame.  Unpacking the door, fitting hinges, hanging the door, fitting the handles and adjusting to a perfect fit takes about 15 minutes!


Wind bags – invaluable

The frame is then secured into place with the use of a specialised 2-part expanding foam. A little goes a long way and it’s the only part of the process that needs much practice.

The final part of the installation is to fit the architraves to the opposite side of the frame. Given that wall thickness can vary, these architraves are telescopic, allowing a perfect fit.


Telescopic architraves


The finished article

In total we have 11 of these doors to fit and so far we have done 7. In addition there are 3 pocket doors in the same style although a very different process to install them

Kitchen – Part 1

Getting the kitchen in seems like a massive milestone as it’s probably the last of the big jobs and marks the start of the end. We’d spent quite a bit of time visiting kitchen suppliers all over the north-west and the midlands but ended up getting it from a small place just a mile or two up the road.

The kitchen is part of the large open plan area in the house so it had to look good but like everyone, we had a budget. This is the first kitchen I’ve ever bought and I have to say I can’t believe how expensive a bit of chipboard costs!

So what have we bought? The cabinets are Spanish, made by Xey, and are finished in a matt dark grey colour. The work-surfaces are Neolith Iron Moss which is a sintered stone and is just 12mm thick.

The cabinets arrived a couple of weeks ago and took over the entire living area.

kitchenstairskirting - 3kitchenstairskirting - 4

First cabinets in place.

The light fittings are still under test and hence why they are hanging down. They should be pushed up into the ceiling soon.

kitchenstairskirting - 8kitchenstairskirting - 10

The worktops have been templated and are due to be fitted any day now…


Another one of those blog entries that just needs lots of photos.

The flooring is all engineered oak. Upstairs we have 12mm thick planks while downstairs we have 16mm thick herringbone parquet. The herringbone is glued to the floor but the planks upstairs are floating on a 3mm thick layer of insulation but are each glued together.

The job isn’t quite finished yet as we have yet to finish the transitions between the wood flooring and the tiled bathrooms and we also have to finish off around the stairwell and above the front door. This will all be done in the next couple of weeks or so.

Downstairs, we have done most of the open plan area only – just enough to allow us to get the kitchen fitted in little over a week.


The king line – dead centre of the front door

internal - 13

internal - 16

Trimming for the coir mat

internal - 20

internal - 14

Creating the border

IMG_20170814_155252071internal - 10IMAG0642


‘Soldiers’ in the window reveal

internal - 34

Some protective floor covering going down

internal - 24

internal - 26

Not long before this staircase comes out

flooring - 1

BT Openreach – Still Waiting…

This has been a bit of a journey. We had some major struggles with Openreach, what with them wanting to charge us £7,500 for a new connection, but it all seemed to be changing once we approached BT directly. Having an actual house address rather than just being a building site appeared to be the key factor, although for other people this has made no difference.

The order was placed with BT at the beginning of March and all seemed to be well – Openreach had completed their surveys, everything was agreed and we had a way forward. Oh, and it was free!

But then, nothing. I was getting update phone calls every couple of weeks or so, sometimes every week, always saying the same thing – the order is progressing and we should have an update within 7 days. An update, not an actual connection. This went on for many weeks and I could never get to the bottom of what the issue was.

At the start of June I had another of these calls. The guy from BT was very pleasant but just gave me the same news – you should have an update in 7 days. I’d had enough of this so I said I wanted to make a complaint, at least this would now be on record and someone would have to look at it. ‘No problem’ said our chap, ‘and would you like me to close it too?’. I’m not quite sure what he thought that was going to achieve and he seemed surprised when I turned down the offer. So a complaint was raised and surprisingly nothing happened for weeks!

Finally, I got a call from the BT complaints team. By finally, I mean sometime in July. And now it started to happen.

We now have a working phone line, but as of today (24th August 2017) we still have no working internet. I haven’t had a chance to get this resolved but it is on my list of jobs for next week.

So, a new phone connection from BT has taken ‘just’ 5 and a half months. It really shouldn’t have been this hard…


I was quite looking forward to getting the tiling done – in just a few days we would go from a shell of a room to something which is almost finished. We had a few quotes for doing the work (3 bathrooms, cloakroom walls and utility room floor) which all came in at roughly the same cost so we chose a company that my parents had used recently and whose work they were happy with.

The tiles were delivered a week or two before they were to be fitted – all large format porcelain tiles with the exception of the master en-suite which are very large format (1200mm x 600mm) and pretty heavy. This is where it started to go downhill a little.


Floor tiles for family bathroom


Floor tiles for en-suite 2


Wall tiles and floor tiles for master en-suite


Big tiles need a big cutter

A few days before starting, the tiling company boss and his son popped down to check everything was ready for their guy to start work, which it pretty much was. Then they saw the big tiles. “No way”, “Impossible”, “It’s not happening” were just a few of their comments. It was all a bit dramatic and laughable really. Apparently they didn’t want to stick them onto the skimmed plasterboard walls as, they said, with their weight they’d fall off and bring all the plaster with them!

Now, I’m aware that skimmed plasterboard doesn’t have the same load-bearing capacity as tile backer-board but it should still be fine – a test would have proven it one way or the other. Even so, they were refusing point blank to do the work. “Impossible” is a term used by the hard-of-thinking, which this chap clearly was. I told them I was quite prepared to rip the plasterboard down and replace it with whatever was needed to get the job done (he hadn’t thought of that) and the two of them huffed and puffed, trying to put on some air of arrogance and superiority, which fell short somewhat. It might not have helped that I pointed out that I’d got this far building a whole house, so sticking a few tiles on a wall wasn’t exactly the most challenging thing I’d had to do that week. I laughed. They left.

The actual guy that came to do the work was as different from the previous jokers as it was possible to be. Aside from being a decent bloke and doing a great job, the tiles didn’t faze him in the slightest. Yes they are heavy and yes they are very awkward to fit but there was nothing that stopped him fitting them. All done and they look great!

I’ve just realised I haven’t taken any photos of the finished rooms so I’ll update this entry in a few days’ time.


Family bathroom tiling in progress


Electric Underfloor Heating

Heating of the house is provided by a wet underfloor heating system (UFH) on the ground floor. Everyone we spoke with that had built a house to the same standards had commented that this was more than enough and in reality would hardly be used, even in the depths of winter.

But there was something nagging at me. We have some very high ceilings (4m+) and heat rises. My fear was that the upstairs would never quite get warm enough on the cold days and we’d have nothing to generate more heat. Doing something during the build phase would be much easier and cheaper than any retro-fit so I looked at the options. I’m still on the page that the ground floor UFH will be sufficient, but towel radiators and electric UFH in each of the bathrooms isn’t that expensive and would provide a heat boost if needed.

The electric UFH is supplied as a roll that can be cut to suit the room, with the tiles applied directly on top. A simple temperature probe and thermostat finishes the installation off. We’ve gone with Heatmiser Neo ‘stats throughout the house – not too expensive, look ok and can be controlled via an app if needed.


Electric UFH mat laid in-place


A bath-shaped gap in the UFH

I’ve Tanked!

We have 3 bathrooms and in each will be a wet-room – basically instead of having a shower tray it’s just a tiled area. Hopefully, the tiling and grouting will be of such high quality that no water will ever get through but we know that is unlikely to be the case so the key challenge is to make sure that any water that does seep through the tiles doesn’t end up dripping through the ceiling. The way to do this is by tanking the wet-room area.

Tanking is effectively sealing the area with a waterproof membrane. There are many different types but the one we went for is what is termed as a liquid membrane, which is like a rubberised paint. Larger gaps are covered with a waterproof tape.

I ended up using two different brands due to running out half way through. Initially I used Weber sys.protect, which is pale blue in colour. It’s quite thick but very easy to apply. The only down-side with this system, although I only realised later, was that the re-inforcing tape for joins and gaps needs to be bedded into the membrane. You do this by painting on some of the membrane then laying down the tape before going over it again with more membrane. It’s pretty messy and more time consuming than it should be, especially around corners.

The second brand I used was Megaproof. Their tape is rubberised self-adhesive with a fleece backing. It is so much easier to apply and get a good seal and I really wished I’d used it from the start. The membrane itself I didn’t like. I’m sure it did a good job as it did cover ok, but it’s very runny and needs a lot more care to ensure you don’t get it everywhere!

In the photos below some of it looks a bit patchy, but this was generally after a single coat and even then looked much better than the photos show.

You can also see the wet-room former we used (Dukkaboard). This helps to get a nice slope to the drain and is waterproof so doesn’t need applying with the membrane. The same goes for the tile back board. The main reasons for using the tile backer board are that it’s a good surface on which to tile (strange!) and it is more effective at reflecting heat from the electric UFH than plain chipboard.


Megaproof. Easy to spill…


First coat of sys.protect


 Megaproof tape on the tile backer board joins


Weber sys.protect vs. Megaproof Megaseal

All ready for the UFH to be laid and the tiling can start!

The Garage

The Initial Plan

The last of the ‘big’ jobs is to build the garage. The original plan was for it to be made from a single skin of wide blocks so that I didn’t have to have any internal piers and with an insulated slab, walls and roof. It would also have a flat roof with parapet similar to the flat-roofed section we have above the kitchen. Size-wise it was planned at 7265mm wide and 7715mm long – so quite big! We’ve made a few changes to that original plan.

The New Plan

Firstly, it’s now 6740mm in each direction. The reasons for this change were that although I did want something as big as possible so that I could work comfortably on my cars I didn’t want it to dominate the front of the plot. A friend has a HUGE garage and seeing how he had set his out made me comfortable that I could make ours smaller without really compromising my work space.

The second change is to the structure. It’s now being made from single skin 100mm blocks with piers in each corner and half-way along each length. Quite simply this has been done to save money.

The last main change is to the insulation. It won’t have an insulated slab and at the moment neither the walls or the roof will be insulated. This may change but probably not until next year. Again, this is just a cost -reducing exercise as I’d rather spend the money on something to actually go in the garage!

 Levelling The Site

It’s been a bit of a challenge to work out the levels. The gateway is higher that the garage slab which in turn is higher than the front door of the house. In other words the plot slopes towards the house from the road. We want as flat a driveway as we can get but that really means that we need to build a small retaining wall in front of the house. This isn’t perfect but by keeping it reasonably low (a couple of blocks) and moving it away from the house enough it should work ok. It’s hard to visualise it but I’m sure it’ll be fine once done.


Retaining wall in front of house

The garage slab is due to be poured tomorrow so I’ll update with more detail later in the week.


The only issue we’ve had so far is that the brickie put a spade through the gas pipe! The pipe  was laid by National Grid and they didn’t put any tracer tape down so I can’t blame him for not knowing. Anyway, 3 visits later from the ‘gas guys’ and it’s all fixed.


Drainage and Groundworks

With the scaffolding down and gas, electric and water all routed into the house (we’ll conveniently ignore BT for now) the outside was pretty much ready for the next few external jobs – preparing for the garage and getting the drains laid.

In theory we could have started some of this work quite a bit sooner but work on the garage couldn’t start until the shipping container we were using as a site office and storage was removed. It was quite handy having it as it kept the external trades out of the house and the inside of the house as clutter-free as possible. And less ‘stuff’ visible to unwanted night-time visitors.


Each of the downspouts from the gutters feeds into one of two soakaways. These are just holes in the garden that are filled with stones (then recovered) which allow the water to ‘soak away’! With the land being so sandy we don’t have a drainage issue and these work pretty well.

Drains - 3

Rainwater soakaway

Drains - 4

Soakaway covered

Drains - 5

Access for rodding will be cut down after the ground is levelled



In total we have 6 soil pipes exiting the house to feed into the main sewer, with four on one side of the house and two on the other side. There is one for each of the three bathrooms, two for the downstairs cloak-room (I know – see the blog entry about the issue with how the ducts were originally laid into the slab) and one from the kitchen. The utility room feeds into the one from the second en-suite. On each side of the house they merge into each other and then route off towards the main sewer. At each point where there is a change in direction we need a man-hole to allow for access. As ugly as they are there isn’t a lot we can do about this so the only thing was to ensure that they would be sited in the grass and not in the path around the house. I’ll try and get some of the covers that allow grass to be grown in them if I can.

Fortunately, I think, the main sewer runs through our rear garden so connecting to it should be pretty straight forward, assuming we can find it! Each of our two neighbours ‘knew’ where it was, although they hadn’t actually seen it, and the plan supplied by United Utilities was at about the level of detail my 9-year-old niece could provide. Aside from it’s general location the other challenge was that, based on where the neighbours said it was, it must be DEEP! At a guess around 4-8m deep. Oh joy

A morning with a big digger didn’t uncover anything so we resorted to UU’s sketch. And then we found it! We should employ more 9-year-olds I think. Or is that not the Right Thing To Do these days? The pipe is about 1.3 m down but only around 180mm in diameter – for some reason I was expecting it to be much bigger. So we had a big hole, an exposed main sewer and a number of our soil pipes ready to feed into it. Just need to get Building Control to approve it all now.

Drains - 6

Drains - 2

Main sewer

Drains - 1

Building Control

The Building Control Office (BCO), Bill, arrived to sign-off the drains and was really happy with what he saw – all good. The only fly in the ointment was that BC don’t sign off the connection to the main sewer as that’s under the control of the utility company. And you can’t just connect to the sewer, you need permission. We didn’t have permission!!!! Now, this is something I should have picked up on a year ago when we got the water connection but as the forms asked whether we were connecting to the mains sewer (yes) and there was no resulting instruction to do anything I’d struck it off my list of things to think about. The groundworkers had a moan (it was all my fault…) but I did point out that they’d connected to main sewers hundreds of time before, knew we were connecting to a main sewer, hadn’t asked whether we had permission (apparently they didn’t know!), hadn’t organised for UU to come and inspect the works and also would have connected it up if the BCO hadn’t said anything.

I made a few quick calls, filled in the forms, pleaded for a quick approval and got it all sorted within about a week. Having said that we are still yet to make the connection though as UU need at least 5 days to inspect the work before the hole is covered up and the guys were due off site the following day. They need to come back in a few weeks anyway so it’ll be done then.

Levelling and the Patio

The site slopes from front to back, not massively but ‘plenty’. As far as the font of the plot is concerned the main challenge is to find a way to go from the gate to the front door, while still keeping as level a driveway as possible, bearing in mind there is about 1.3m height difference over around 11m. We decided that the best way would be to build a small wall in front of the house with a path between it and the house itself. The driveway would come to just below the top of the wall. We’re still to work out the exact details but as we’re just about to build the garage we do need to know where the driveway level will be so that we can lay the garage slab. I think we know…

As part of the works we reshaped part of the plot to make it a little more level and dragged top-soil and sand around to achieve this. It does look much better now but we still have work to do, which will be done when the sewer is connected. We’ve also laid MOT Type 1 stone around the front, one side and back of the house onto which a path and the patio will be laid. I’m hoping the patio won’t be too big but it does look sizeable as it’s the full width of the house plus a bit (so around 15-16m) and 5m deep. At least we have some time to get used to it before we actually lay any paving.


Patio - 1



Area stripped, trenches dug and concrete poured. Bill the BCO was on holiday when we needed the trenches inspecting so we had a stand-in chap come to inspect. He was concerned by the roots from the hedge so we were forced to dig deeper that we’d normally expect. The fact that there weren’t any roots anywhere near didn’t seem relevant to him and I can’t help thinking that he just wanted to find something for us to fix. Well, it’s ready now so we just have to wait for the brickies.


For some, the choice of a passiv-standard house and a gas boiler for hot water and UFH provision  would appear to be an odd one. Why not fit a ground or air-source heat pump (GSHP/ASHP)? Well, a number of reasons actually. GSHP aren’t cheap (could easily be £15k+ by the time it’s finished) and they require a fair bit of land into which the pipes are buried. Although our garden is a reasonable size, not all of it would be suitable for laying the pipework. ASHP aren’t particularly efficient and still quite expensive, although they are a chunk cheaper than GSHP. Gas on the other hand is pretty cheap to install and run – and we have a gas main running right across the front of the plot. On top of that our heating demand will be extremely low so paying out more than a couple of thousand for hot water just doesn’t stack up. Being efficient is far more important to us than fitting ‘stuff’.

I’d been warned many times that getting the utilities organised and connected was probably the hardest, or least most frustrating, part of the build. Not wanting to be caught out, I made initial contact with each supplier very early on in the process – I knew the gas connection wasn’t a priority but I still wanted to be on top of it all so I made the initial call to get it kicked off even before we’d broken ground.

That call amounted to Good News – the connection was relatively cheap (£400-ish); we had the option of digging the trench on our land for the pipe ourselves or letting them do it; and they only needed 4 weeks from start to finish. Easy! So I parked it.

Fast forward to the end of March and talk of needing to get the UFH up and running started. Obviously, we wanted to get it working in case there were issues that would need resolving but we also needed to get the floor fully dried and the system ‘run in’ before we laid the wood flooring and tiled the utility room floor. No problem, I’ll just get the connection sorted – it’ll be about 4 weeks.

One phone call later and 4 weeks became a stated 6-8 weeks! Major panic ensued, in me at least. I got the groundworks guys to dig the trench at the side of the house and National Grid came out to survey the site. All good except they weren’t happy with the duct I’d had installed in the wall of the plant room through which the gas pipe would route and instead they insisted that they drilled the hole themselves. Not in my house you’re not – you’ll use the duct! We had a discussion and everyone agreed that I was getting my way, which was nice 🙂

While the trench was open we had the BT duct, water pipe and a duct carrying the mains electric to the house laid at the appropriate spacing and depths. National Grid actually laid the gas pipe at the end of April – almost 4 weeks to the day after my initial order! Naturally I then proceeded to forget that I needed a gas meter. School boy error.

Gas - 2

Yellow is gas, blue is water, grey is BT

Gas - 1

Grey BT duct laid and pegged by ourselves. Gas by National Grid. Water and electric below

Gas - 3

Gas and others enter the plant room

You’re generally given a few options by National Grid as to where the meter is to be located. I think these days they like to fit them in a cabinet set into the external wall. Now, not only do they look ugly but in a highly insulated and air-tight house they are a Very Bad Idea. Another option is to have one installed externally at about ground level. I don’t like these either but if that’s what we have to have then so be it. In fact we didn’t need either of those two options and were able to put it inside the plant room right by the boiler, exactly where I’d planned for it almost a year earlier!

Meter installed (despite a load of par-for-the-course whinging by the installer) and we were up and running. Boiler fired up, UFH running, no leaks. We were in business. Of course, we were now into June and the weather was warming up. Good insulation, an air-tight structure, large amounts of glazing, high external temperatures and a UFH system that was being slowly ramped up to maximum isn’t a good mix. It was HOT inside the house. Really hot. Too hot to work comfortably, that’s for sure. No surprise then that the electricians switched it off a couple of times! One saving grace is that we’ve built on top of a hill (the slab is 79.00m above sea level) and with the windows and doors open we get a lovely breeze through the house, which did help to cool things down somewhat. It was still warm though.


PlantRoom - 5

Gas meter installed

PlantRoom - 4

Neat plumbing

PlantRoom - 1

Plant room getting busier

PlantRoom - 3

UFH pipes – thermostat heads ready to go on

Anyway, it’s off now. The next job is to try and work out which pipe belongs to which room/loop so we can fit the thermostats. I ‘think’ I know which is which but I’m sure we’ll find out sooner or later.


Just one last job before I forget. The plant room was looking pretty untidy as I hadn’t bothered to connect the red MVHR ducts to the distribution boxes. I decided it was time to fix that. I’ve got a couple that I’d like to tidy a bit better, but it’s looking pretty neat now I think.

PlantRoom - 2